🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.